If you’re in the Bay Area, be sure not to miss Sean Teegarden at this month’s SF Bay Area Lightroom User Group.
Posts in Category "Adobe Lightroom"
The other day a customer asked me how to decrease the size of Lightroom’s Preview file (yourcatalogname Previews.lrdata). Although I had previously posted this Quick Tip video (How to prevent Lightroom’s Previews File from Taking Over the Hard Drive), he noticed that when deleting files from the catalog, the preview file size wasn’t immediately reduced. Well, it turns out that there is a slight time delay because, if you simply remove an image from the Lightroom catalog, you can still tap Command + Z (Mac) | Control + Z (Win) to undo the removal and have the photo(s) appear back in the catalog. Therefore Lightroom waits to delay that sort of clean-up task until there is an idle moment (when you aren’t making changes), and then runs in the background, so that priority tasks have all the processing power they need.
When painting with the Adjustment Brush in the Develop Module in Lightroom, tap the “O” key to Show/Hide Mask Overlay. Add the Shift key to cycle the mask overlay colors (red, green and white). Displaying the mask overlay can make it much easier to see areas the areas that are included/excluded from the adjustment in order to make refinements to the mask.
If you repeatedly want to apply specific setting(s) to images in Lightroom’s Develop module, apply the setting(s) to a single image and then use the shortcut Command + C (Mac) | Control + Shift + C (Win) to copy the setting(s) using the Copy Settings dialog. Now, as you move through your images, you can quickly paste the setting(s) using Command + V (Mac) | Control + Shift + V (Win).
This can help your productivity if, for example, you copied settings for the Post Crop Vignette. As you move through your images (making different adjustments and/or applying different presets that change color, tone etc.), you can easily paste the Post Crop Vignette settings to the images that need it using Command + V (Mac) | Control + Shift + V (Win).
Lightroom can display up to three different dates for a file in the Metadata panel: Date Time Original, Date Time Digitized and Date Time. Note: try setting the Metadata panel’s preset to EXIF to display them all. Here’s the explanation of when and why you might need these different dates:
• Date Time Original – This is the moment in time that is shown in the picture. In other words, if you were at a new year’s eve party last year and took a picture at one minute before midnight, the Date Time Original of that picture is 12/31/2012 11:59 PM.
• Date Time Digitized – This is the moment in time at which the picture was committed to digital form. For photos from a digital camera, this will always be identical to Date Time Original. For film, it wouldn’t be. For example, if you’d taken that new year’s eve picture on film, then waited exactly six months to scan (i.e., digitize) the film the Date Time Original would still be 12/31/2012 11:59 PM, but the Date Time Digitized would be 6/30/2013 11:59 PM.
• Date Time – This is the file creation date. Again, for a picture from a digital camera that you haven’t mucked with, this will be identical to the previous two fields. But if you generate a new file from the picture (using covert to DNG, as in your example, or via other means such as creating a PSD by editing in Photoshop) then this field will show the date on which the new file was created. In other words, if you edited your new year’s eve picture in Photoshop at noon today, generating a new PSD in the process, the Date Time for the new file would be today’s date 12pm.
For most ordinary people shooting with a digital camera, the only field they care about is Date Time Original, and the only reason to ever edit it is if the clock on their camera was set incorrectly for some reason when they took the picture. For example, if you’d traveled from California to New York for that new year’s party, and forgot to adjust your camera’s clock to account for the time zone change, then that picture you took would show a Date Time Original of 12/31/2012 8:59 PM. Since you know that’s not correct, you would probably want to edit the capture time and use the “Shift by a set number of hours” option to move the Date Time Original field ahead by three hours.
Thank you so much Ben for this excellent explanation!
In this episode of The Complete Picture (How to change Capture time in Lightroom 5), Julieanne demonstrates two ways to change the capture time of your images. The first enables you to offset a time zone change and the second supports a custom adjustment to align multiple cameras used to shoot one event but with different date/time settings in-camera.
Since I’m always looking for ways to make image editing faster, I will typically store the files that I’m currently working with on my internal drive (which happens to be a speedy little solid state drive). However, this drive is much too small to hold all of my images so when I’m finished editing the project, I will move them to my external storage drives (which are slower) to make room for the “new” work in progress.
If you are working on a file in Lightroom and choose Edit-In Photoshop, make your changes, and save the edited file – then Lightroom will automatically import that file into the Lightroom Catalog. If however, after opening the file in Photoshop, you choose to make a duplicate image (to experiment in another direction for example) and save that duplicated file, then Lightroom won’t be aware of the duplicate and therefore, will not be able to auto-import it.
If you find yourself in this situation (Lightroom has not imported files that you want in the catalog), in the Library module of Lightroom, Control -click (Mac) | Right Mouse -click (Win) on the folder and choose synchronize.
The ability to open multiple files from Lightroom into Photoshop as Smart Objects and place them into a single document saves a significant amount of time when compositing. The only restriction is that you must first open a document in Photoshop. Since I typically work with a blank canvas to begin with, this requirement doesn’t bother me. Once you have your Photoshop document open, select the images in Lightroom (yes, you will have to be in Normal screen mode in Lightroom to do this) and drag and drop them on top of the open Photoshop document. Each image will be placed one at a time – displaying transformation handles for resizing to the desired size upon placement.
As you can see, all of the files are also automatically converted to smart objects as they are placed and the layer name takes on the original document’s name. Sweet!
Note: the options to “Resize Image During Place” as well as “Place or Drag Raster Images as Smart Object” are controlled in Photoshop’s General Preferences.
Update: Sorry, I think this is a Mac-only feature. If you know of a way to do this on Windows, please share!
In order to quickly view any image’s file type while in the Grid view in Lightroom, I customize my Library View Options (View > View Options), to Show Grid Extras: Expanded Cells. Then, I set the Expanded Cell Extras to display the File Base Name in the upper left and the File Extension below it. This helps avoid the truncation of the file extension when thumbnails are small and file names are long.
When creating soft-cover books using the Book module in Lightroom 5, you need to have a certain thickness to the book before you can add text to the spine. The limit differs based on the paper type:
– Premium Lustre paper – 84 pages
-Premium Matte paper – 84 pages
-ProLine Uncoated paper – 70 pages
-ProLine Pearl Photo paper – 70 pages
-Standard paper – 114 pages
For NON-softcover books (Hardcover Dust Jacket and Hardcover Image Wrap), you can have spine text even with a 1 page book. So you’ll always be able to input spine text on a hardcover book.
Since sometimes it’s the little things that make a big difference in our workflow, I thought I would repost this video (Top 10 Hidden Gems in Lightroom 5) today. I cover the additional, seldom talked about, features in Lightroom 5 that can make a huge difference in the way that you work with your images.
Lightroom 2-5 supports photos up to 65,000 pixels long or wide or up to 512 megapixels, whichever is smaller.
Note: Lightroom 1 imports photos up to 10,000 x 10,000 pixels.
In this episode of The Complete Picture (Video Tutorial – How to Optimize Lightroom 5), Julieanne shares several suggestions for hardware, software, and preferences to help optimize the performance of Lightroom. Keeping these tips in mind when setting up a new system or refining your current system will help speed up Lightroom and make you more productive.
Lightroom automatically adjusts the amount of sharpening in the Print Module based on the size of the original and the size of the printed piece. The different “Print Sharpening Amount” – Low, Standard and High, should be selected based on the content of the image as well as personal preferences. I would suggest that you print a small number of “typical” images on the paper stocks that you use most frequently to see what amount your prefer. Of course if you want more control, you can always open your image into Photoshop to apply sharpening using any of the many different Filters.