When compositing several images in a single document I often find that a portion of a layer (or portions of multiple layers) will end up being positioned outside of the visible image area. Photoshop, of course, is still keeping track of this information (in case I choose to reposition the layer), but when I’m certain that I will no longer need it, I can choose Select > All and then Image > Crop. This eliminates unnecessary information outside or beyond the visible image area and will typically help to keep my file size more manageable.
Note: when working with Smart Objects, Photoshop will still keep the additional information, regardless of whether or not you crop the document.
I’m excited to announce Lightroom for iOS 2.2, which now supports full-resolution output:
“With version 2.2, we added in the ability for Lightroom mobile to output full resolution files for any file that was either captured on the device or added to the device, either through the camera connection kit, transferred via Wi-Fi from a camera directly, or transferred to the device via services like email, Dropbox, or Google Drive. Additionally, any files that were added directly to an iPhone or iPad are transferred in full resolution to other mobile devices signed into the same account. This way, files captured with your iPhone are available for further editing and exporting from your iPad, in full resolution and vice-versa.”
In addition, Lightroom for iOS 2.2 now supports 3D Touch in the Camera Roll browser view so that you can quickly preview your image with Peek & Pop when browsing Camera Roll photos in the app.
One can always select Image > Canvas Size to numerically add or subtract to the width or height of one’s image, but if you would rather eyeball it, try using the Crop tool. Drag out a crop marquee and release the mouse. Then, grab one of the anchor points and drag it beyond the visible image area. When the crop is applied,the area outside of the image and within the crop marquee will be added to the image canvas.
Note: to add transparency around the image (instead of filling the added space with the background color), convert the Background into a layer by clicking the Lock icon (on the Layers panel) before cropping.
I came across this very useful document that shows what the differences are between Lightroom CC and Lightroom 6.
• Command + Z (Mac) | Control + Z (Win) will toggle undo/redo of the last command.
• Option + Command + Z (Mac) | Alt + Control + Z (Win) will step you back through history.
• Command + Shift + Z (Mac) | Control + Shift + Z (Win) will step you forward through history.
To change the number of history states (multiple undo’s) that Photoshop keeps track of while an image is open, select Preferences > Performance and enter a value for History States. Setting a higher number (100 for example) will save more changes, and allow you to step farther back in time, however it will also require Photoshop to keep track of more information in RAM (or, when all of the RAM is in use, using the scratch disk). Making large changes to the entire document (adding layers, running filters etc.), requires keeping track of more history than smaller changes (such as small, localized strokes with the Healing Brush). Therefore, if you increase the number of states and notice a performance hit, trying lowering the number again.
You can also manually set the Cache Levels and Cache Tile Size in the Performance Preferences. If you use relatively small files—roughly 1 megapixel or 1280 by 1024 pixels—and many layers (50 or more), set Cache Levels to 1 or 2. Setting Cache Levels to 1 disables image caching; only the current screen image is cached (however, you may not get high-quality results with some Photoshop features if you set Cache Levels to 1). If you use files with larger pixel dimensions—say, 50 megapixels or larger—set Cache Levels higher than 4. Higher cache levels speed up redrawing.
Click here for more information about optimizing Photoshop’s performance. https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/optimize-photoshop-cc-performance.html
When using the Magnetic Lasso tool, the following shortcuts can help to quickly change tool options.
[ or ] decreases/increases the lasso width
[ or ] + Shift goes to the minimum/maximum lasso width
‘,’ (comma) or ‘.’ (period) decreases/increases the edge contrast
‘,’ (comma) or ‘.’ (period) + Shift goes to the minimum/maximum edge contrast
‘;’ (semicolon) or ‘’’ (apostrophe) decreases/increases the frequency
‘;’ (semicolon) or ‘’’ (apostrophe) + Shift goes to the minimum/maximum frequency
In order to create a more even stroke of paint than you might be able to accomplish when painting “freehand”, first create a path in the shape of the stroke (with the Pen tool). Next, select the desired options for the Brush (to be used to paint the path), and, from the Paths panel fly-out menu, select Stroke Path. Choose Brush from the drop down menu and voila, your path strokes perfectly! You can even choose to check the Simulate Pressure option to simulate pressure sensitivity of the tool.
You can see from the tools listed in the Stroke Path dialog that you can use this technique to stroke with a variety of painting tools, making it equally useful for dodging and burning, cloning objects, and more.
When the Freeform Pen tool is selected, try checking the Magnetic option (in the Option bar) to have the Pen tool analyze edge areas in images. To customize the Magnetic settings, in the Options bar click the gear icon and customize the “Curve Fit” (how tight/loose the path should follow the edge), “Width” (how many pixels to look at), “Contrast” (what determines an edge) and “Frequency” (how often to lay down anchor points).
To step and repeat the heart, I selected the heart layer (this is a pixel based layer, not a shape).
Command + Option + T (Mac) | Control + Alt + T (Win) transforms a duplicate of the layer. In this example I scaled the heart down and moved it to the right.
Command + Option + Shift + T (Mac) | Control + Alt + Shift + T (Win) duplicates the layer and applies the same transformation settings (step and repeat). I this case I applied the shortcut 4 times.
Here are a few additional examples. The first heart layer was scaled down from the center, and the second shows the heart moved and rotated when duplicated.
Use Command + Shift + T (Mac) | Control + Shift + T (Win) to transforms a layer using the previous transformation settings but without making a copy (this is the same as Edit > Transform > Again).
With a layer (or layers) selected, choosing Edit > Free Transform will show the transform controls enabling you to transform the contents of the layer. However, if you’re doing a lot of transforming of layers, it might be quicker to select the Move tool and enable “Show Transform Controls” in the Options bar. Paths and vector masks are the exception – even with path selected, you will need to choose Edit > Free Transform path to access the transform controls.
These shortcuts can help speed up the process:
• Holding the Shift key while dragging any of the corner anchor points (handles), forces proportional transformations.
• Adding the Option + (Mac) | Alt + (Win) key transforms from the center.
• Command (Mac) | Control (Win) -drag a corner anchor point to freely distort the image.
• Command + Shift (Mac) | Control + Shift (Win) -drag a center anchor point to skew the image.
• Command + Option + Shift (Mac) | Control + Alt + Shift (Win) -drag a corner anchor point to change the perspective of an image.
• To apply the transformation tap the Return (Mac) | Enter (Win) key.
• To cancel a transformation tap the Escape key.